You don’t need to book a table in advance to be served at the Fried Herring wagon at Stockholm’s Södermalm Square. Wait your turn patiently together with dozens of other herring-addicts, place your order and pay for your meal at the window on the right. The choices include fried herring and mashed potatoes, herring in a thin bread roll, herring burger (don’t knock the burger unless you’ve tried it), and herring on different kinds of soft or crisp bread.

After payment, shift to the window on your left to choose your condiments. You have about 10 possible options: shredded carrots, sliced red onions, sliced cucumber, and lingon berry jam are among the most popular. Why do Swedes like herring with jam? It’s a mystery to me.

There is almost nowhere to sit near the herring wagon. But that is part of the charm. It’s a challenge to balance a plate or carton of herring and mashed potatoes in your lap, while sitting on low stone steps. And if the wind blows…watch out!

The wagon has peddled its herring at Södermalm Square for at least 23 years, which makes it a genuine institution. Its rare in other ways, too. Where else can you buy a cup of coffee for only 10 kronor? I asked a fellow named Tarik who was working at the wagon if he still likes to eat herring, after working with the fish every day, “We still eat it, but not every day,” he said with a laugh. His colleague named Anwar pointed to a photo of a herring dish called “Skåning,” which comes with a mustard sauce. “The Skåning is my favourite, he explained.
Photos: Alexander Farnsworth